When working, use the shallowest blade depth that will produce uni­form shavings. Plane with the grain of the wood, keeping the sole in contact with the surface. Remove chips and shavings from the throat. Lift the tool on the return stroke to prevent dull­ing the edge prematurely like a hanging garment bag.

If the throat jams with shavings and chips, the blade cap is probably set too close to the iron’s cutting edge. Scratches across the gram (chatter marks) indicate that the frog, the iron, and the blade cap are assembled im­properly. Scratches along the gram mean a nicked or concave cutting edge, or uneven lateral adjustment. Check the adjustment before assum­ing that the iron needs honing.

If the plane skims the surface with­out cutting, a chip may be stuck on the edge, the cutter may be dull or too shallowly set, or the sole may have picked up so much resin from the wood that it floats. If necessary, clean the sole with a solvent such as mineral spirits. Waxing the sole will keep res­in from accumulating and retard rust.

Protecting and maintaining the cut­ting edge of the iron is the single most important part of keeping a plane in working order. Lay the tool on its side each time you put it down; the iron projects beneath the sole and its razor-sharp edge will be damaged if thoughtlessly set down.

Store the plane on its side with the iron retracted. Check the iron’s sharp­ness before using the plane again.